May/June 2005

Ode to Asparagus

A nutrient-dense food, asparagus is high in Folic Acid and a good source of potassium, fiber, vitamin B6, vitamins A and C, and thiamin

by Beth D’Addono

Asparagus is the king of all spring vegetables.

A bold statement that fans of baby peas and green onions may protest, but what other vegetable is celebrated by entire Italian and French villages, which salute its dual green and ivory countenance every spring with festivals dedicated to its tender, grassy flavor.

First cultivated about 2500 years ago in Greece, asparagus is Greek for stalk or shoot. The Greeks believed asparagus was an herbal cure for everything from toothaches to bee stings. Second century physician, Galen, described asparagus as “cleansing and healing.” The Romans were big fans and grew it in high-walled courtyards. In their conquests, they spread it to the Gauls, Germans, Britains and from there, the rest of the world.

Asparagus, which is a member of the Lily family, has a split personality. It is best known in America as a beautiful apple green stalk with purple-tinged tips, a garden sentry that grows from a crown that is planted about a food deep in sandy soils—that’s why it’s so important to wash it thoroughly of grit. An asparagus gardener must cultivate patience—a typical plant is usually not harvested for the first three years, allowing the crown to develop a strong fibrous root system. Europeans prefer the shy white asparagus (particularly the famous French asparagus of Argenteuil), which is grown underground to prevent it from becoming green. White spears are more delicate of flavor, yet thicker and smoother than the green variety. Asparagus plants live up to 10 years, with the spear’s size indicating the age of the plant from which it came—the more mature the plant, the thicker the asparagus.

When shopping for asparagus, straight and firm stalks with tight buds are best. Stick your fingernail into the bottom of the asparagus and see if there is any juice. If it is dry, it will be too fibrous and tough. It’s best to cook the asparagus the day you buy it, but if you can’t, cut off the ends and soak it in water for an hour or so. Then store the dried stalks tightly wrapped in plastic for three or four days in the refrigerator. Before you blanch, peel the thicker end of the stalk of its stringy outer cover, revealing the tender heart beneath.

A nutrient-dense food, asparagus is high in Folic Acid and is a good source of potassium, fiber, vitamin B6, vitamins A and C, and thiamin. Naturally low in calories, asparagus is rich in fiber, making it filling, as well as healthful.

When Michelle Haines, chef-owner of the Spring Mill Café, thinks of asparagus, she thinks of her grandmother. “She was a marvelous cook, I learned everything from her,” says Haines, in her heavily accented French. Haines, who serves rustic, country French fare at her combination restaurant/art gallery, was born in Paris, but grew up in the Touraine region in the French countryside. “My grandmother went to the store every day—and of course only vegetables and fruit in season were for sale. She loved asparagus, and would simply blanch it and maybe serve it with a little vinaigrette. Or maybe on the side of a steak, soaking up the jus.”

Martin Hamann, executive chef at the Four Seasons, adores asparagus and features both the white and green vegetable on his menus as often as possible. “Go for the white when it’s in season in early spring, because the flavor is more pronounced—it is a true delicacy.”

Asparagus, white or green, is a rare thing—a guiltless pleasure that can be indulged in over and over again. Just one more thing to love about spring...

Speaking of delicate, there’s a rather indelicate side to asparagus that, like the elephant in the living room, just can’t be ignored. Our beloved vegetable is a natural diuretic, and produces an odiferous, skunky after effect as its amino acids are broken down during digestion and eliminated in urine. That said, there’s something comforting about knowing where you’ve been. And when it comes to asparagus, any vestige of this wonderful vegetable is a badge of honor.